LIKE's Summer Walk - discovering the familiar
A grand place to start our saunter around King’s Cross - we met up outside the Midland Grand Hotel. Nobly resisting the urge to go inside and admire the renovations from a seat at the bar, we gathered around Rachel Kolsky as she told us how Sir George Gilbert Scott’s Gothic confection was rescued from more than 70 years’ neglect and abuse. After Rachel had competed with the traffic and sirens for a while, telling us some history of Cubitt’s King’s Cross and the undesirable area that’s now NW1 – we headed into St Pancras to pay homage to Sir John Betjeman (who fought so hard to save London’s architectural heritage). We heard about William Henry Barlow’s impressive feat – the largest single-span roof in the world at the time – and about the thousands of barrels of beer, from Burton’s breweries, that were stored in the station’s undercroft. Then we walked past the bars (strong-willed eh?) and through St Pancras to emerge opposite the German Gymnasium, the soon-to-be renovated tenements, and near to where the old gas holders were. Rachel reassured us that the gas holders are going to be reconstructed, once all the building work and landscaping has been completed in the development area.
On the way to York Way we visited beautiful St Pancras old church, marvelled at St Pancras Yacht basin (who knew there was a dry dock in NW1?!) were delighted by Camley Street Natural Park, then arrived at King’s Place and learnt about the wonders it houses. Some LIKE members are lucky enough to work there, and I don’t remember any of them telling us how cool the place is: inviting public spaces, art exhibits, music (in September there’ll be 100 performances in 4 days) and a canal-side bar.
Wonderful as the walk had been we were now really looking forward to our supper and a long, cool drink. So we thanked our informative and enthusiastic guide, Rachel, and walked along the canal path to Canal 125
Over dinner we noted the highlights of the tour: for some walkers it was the spectacular Midland Grand, for others the previously unexplored areas around the back of the stations - such as the Gymnasium and canal-side renovations, the statue of John Betjeman with his nylon shopping bag enchanted one of the group, and someone else planned to return to Camley Street to explore the park. For most people the old churchyard - with Hardy’s tree and John Soane’s phone box tomb - was a tranquil high-spot, and the focus of one of the best stories of the night. Angela Burdett-Coutts isn’t buried at St Pancras, but her memorial obelisk (she was Lay Rector of the church) prompted Rachel to tell us about the woman’s inexhaustible philanthropy (she gave something like £3m to good causes during her life) and impressive achievements - including becoming the first female peer in recognition of her accomplishments, being given the freedom of the cities of London and Edinburgh, surviving into her early 90’s and, at the age of 67, marrying her 29-year old secretary. I bet she wouldn’t have been flagging after a two-hour saunter around King’s Cross!




